The origin story of jerk is one of preservation. Before European conquest, slavery, and, finally emancipation, the indigenous people of Jamaica, the Taíno, perfected the art of jerk. It’s a fitting metaphor for survival and an implicit slap in the face to their colonizers: We will survive, and thrive, no matter what you do to us. The Taíno passed along their jerk-making skills to their sisters and brothers in resistance, enslaved Africans.
But what is jerk? It’s a way to preserve meat, a marinade, and a cooking method, as Jamaicans will tell you. (They are also quite confident in their own version of jerk and are quick to let you know that so and so’s is the best. My Jamaican immigrant parents looked down upon adding onions, for example.)
A recent trip back to my second “home” meant relaxation—and a scouting trip to find the perfect version. I landed on the jerk stand Best in the West, which locals insist is Number One. One of the pitmasters shared some pointers. Notably: There MUST be soy sauce (we thank 19th-century Chinese immigrants to the island for this contribution). Also no onions, and not too many Scotch bonnet peppers (which could detonate on the palate like an atom bomb). And most importantly, you have to babysit and coddle it while it cooks: low-to-medium heat, flipping and basting every now and then.
My jerk chicken delivers a subtle kick from the peppers; woodsy warmth from the nutmeg, cloves, and allspice; savoriness from soy sauce; grassy freshness from scallions. And no onions.
Ingredients
- 4Scotch bonnet peppers or habanero chiles, seeded
- 1bunch scallions, roughly chopped, plus more sliced for serving
- 12cloves garlic, peeled
- 1(2″) piece ginger, peeled
- 1/4 c.dark brown sugar
- 1/4 c.pineapple juice (optional)
- Juice of 2 limes
- 12sprigs thyme
- 12allspice berries or 2 tsp. ground allspice
- 2 tsp.ground allspice or 10 whole allspice berries
- 3bay leaves
- 2 tsp.ground nutmeg
- 1 1/2 tsp.kosher salt
- 1 tsp.black peppercorns
- 1 tsp.ground cloves
- 1/4 c.reduced-sodium soy sauce, plus 2 tbsp. for sauce (optional)
- 4 lb.boneless or bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and/or thighs
- 1/4 c.ketchup (optional)
- Neutral oil, for grill
- Lime wedges, for serving
Directions
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- Step 1
In a blender, mix Scotch bonnet peppers, scallions, garlic, ginger, brown sugar, pineapple juice (if using), lime juice, thyme, allspice, bay leaves, nutmeg, salt, peppercorns, cloves, and 1/4 cup soy sauce until smooth. Reserve 1/2 cup marinade; refrigerate until ready to serve. Transfer remaining marinade to a large bowl. Add chicken; toss to coat, making sure to rub marinade under skin. Cover and refrigerate at least overnight or up to 12 hours.
- Step 2In a small bowl, stir ketchup and remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce (if using).
- Step 3Prepare a grill for high heat; heat 5 minutes. Using tongs and a paper towel, dip paper towel into oil and lightly brush grates. After 30 seconds, brush with oil again.
- Step 4Reduce heat to low and grill chicken skin side down, covered, until golden brown and lightly charred, 10 to 12 minutes. Flip chicken, cover, and continue to grill until lightly charred, about 3 minutes more. Flip chicken skin side up and brush with ketchup-soy basting sauce (if using). Cover and continue to grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of chicken registers 165°, about 3 minutes more (white meat and boneless meat will cook at a faster rate).
- Step 5Transfer chicken to a platter. Top with scallions. Serve with reserved marinade and lime wedges alongside.
- Step 1
